Ruins, Pensions, and Our Last Days Of Cycling

“One person’s craziness is another person’s reality.”

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It’s been a busy few weeks, so it’s time for a quick recap in order for you guys to join us here in Istanbul. After frantically escaping the snow in Konya (by taking a bus) we arrived on the warm and rainy coast and proceeded straight away to Bergama, a quaint yet not too touristic town famous for its ruins. A friend had set us up with a room (free!) in a pension, and from the second we arrived, we were in heaven. It was a truly amazing place with cute comfortable rooms, a large courtyard, a full kitchen in its own little house, and a “hang-out/breakfast” house with a fire and books. Everything was perfect; the shower was hot, the bed had a down comforter, and the light switch was conveniently located right above the bed.

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Pergamum (the old name for Bergama) was known for its cotton and fine carpets and was the ancient Roman and Greek cultural center. It seemed to have been a town set on education, which boasted a library with over 200,000 books. When the king died without an heir, he gave the city to the Roman Empire who happily accepted and the city soon flourished with over 150,000 citizens (now 50,000). Pergamum then collapsed as it was constantly invaded by the Goths, and so the town disappeared from history until excavation started in the 1800’s.

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Asklepion is a famous ancient medical center, and was the worlds first psychiatric hospital. Though a sacred site at that location is said to exist as far back as the 4th century B.C., it really gained prominence under the Romans in the second century A.D. In some ways it was like a spa, employing mud baths, music concerts, and messages into their therapy. The other famous ruins in the town are atop a hill, where there is a huge stadium which use to fit 10,000 people.

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Though we quickly visited the ruins, for the most part, we hid from the rain by cooking, reading, and relaxing in the haven of a pension. We even learned how to make “maniti,” Turkish raviolis.

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We cycled for three days before arriving at our next destination, a homestay (also set up by a friend) with an absolutely wonderful family in a smaller Turkish town. We stayed for two nights before continuing on our way to Canakkale (a coastal town which is famous from World War One), where we stayed with an Australian expat who we had met in Georgia. On our way there we found these cute little puppies at the side of the road. They had obviously never seen humans and had no idea what to think of us, but after a bit of bribing (food) we were able to pet a few of them after we found them all sleeping right next to our tent in the morning.

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Now that we have arrived in Istanbul, we are ready to trade our bikes out for our backpacks in order to vacation around with my brother and best friend who have just arrived!

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For a photo of the day and other updates follow me on facebook here, and for some awkwardly cropped photos from our journey, follow us on Instagram @awanderingphoto!

Surviving Winter On the Bike

“Not all those who bicycle are lost.”

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Last week was miserable, mostly because the snowy winter weather got the best of us here in Turkey. That being said, winter cycling doesn’t always have to be difficult, especially if you have the right gear. Though we felt ridiculous carrying around our huge down jackets, our -15C sleeping bags, and our long underwear and hats during the summer, now that we are relying on them to keep us alive and happy on a daily basis they are worth their weight in gold.

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Meal Time On the Road

“Your bike is discovery; your bike is freedom. It doesn’t matter where you are, when you’re on the saddle, you’re taken away.”

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I’ve already talked about common foods we make for dinner, and more recently, I did a post about our new favorite soup, but what about during the day? What we eat really depends on what we can find and what is cheap or in season. For instance, we typically eat buckweat or oatmeal for breakfast, but since we have yet to find either of those things here in Turkey, we have transitioned to eating bread and yogurt, eggs, or cheese when we wake up. During the day we also eat a lot of bread since that’s typically something easily found (fresh) in most countries. We rarely stop to cook an actual lunch so more often than not we end up snacking on fruit, bread, and some sort of sweet thing throughout the day. Though it’s not exactly healthy, in every country we have found a twenty-five cent treat (cookies here, ice cream in Georgia, chocolate in India) that is easily found and incorporated into our “lunch,” along with an unlawful amount of bananas in the States, mangos when they were in season in India, copious amounts of watermelon, tomatoes, and peaches throughout the summer in Georgia, and most recently here in Turkey, a whole lot of mandarins and apples since we have been able to find them everywhere.

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A Turkish Homestay: Living in Van

“I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I intended to be.”

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It was 2C but it felt a whole lot colder as we began to climb yet another small hill. We were soaked, absolutely soaked, and the chilly wind and pouring rain wasn’t helping one bit. We knew we had seventy kilometers to go until the largest city yet, Van, and since we knew we couldn’t camp inside such a large city (and since we were desperate for a shower and electricity to charge our electronics) we were going to try and find a cheap hotel to stay in for the night. I jokingly told Kevin that if an empty truck stopped to offer us a ride at any point (because we looked so pathetic) we would accept, and sure enough, that’s basically what happened.

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Amerika, Diapers, and a Kurdish Fighters Funeral

“Trust your own instinct. Your mistakes might as well be your own, instead of someone else’s.”

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Now that we have been in Turkey for two weeks we have begun to see some patterns. After we tell people where we are from, nearly all of them answer with “oh good!,” “I love Amerika” (with a k here in Turkey) or even, “thank you.” This is especially true in the east predominately Kurdish region where we have been cycling because the United States is currently helping the Kurds to fight off their greatest enemy… ISIS. One Kurd also thanked us (on behalf of his people to our people) for helping to secure some land and government representation for the Iraqi Kurds who are no longer as oppressed as they once were. Though politics definitely aren’t our thing, and we are often hesitate to go around shouting we are from the USA since we definitely aren’t a unanimously loved nation, it has seemed to be a pretty good thing so far over here.

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One Day I’ll Be a Shepherd Too

“But that’s the glory of foreign travel… Suddenly you are five years old again. You can’t read anything, you have only the most rudimentary sense of how things work, you can’t even reliably cross a street without endangering your life. Your whole existence becomes a series of interesting guesses.”

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Though we have seen (and slept in) shepherd’s huts before here in Turkey, the dozens of small stone huts all clumped together like villages really got my attention throughout this vast and desolate area. Though we have seen a few of these nomadic “villages” near the road during the past few days, today we were able to stop and sleep in one of these huts as they provide a wonderful wind shelter. After ditching our bikes we walked for half an hour up the nearest hill and what we saw on the other side amazed me – village after village of these makeshift stone huts scattered throughout the area. Though the (predominately) Kurdish people who inhabit this area are no longer full time nomads as they once were, they still travel for months on end with their sheep, a few donkeys, and their large sheep dogs for protection.

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A Glimpse of Fall in the Turkish Mountains

“Your legs are not giving out. You head is giving up. Keep going.”

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Though our second pass was difficult – 2,500m of gain plus a fifteen kilometer extra climb up and down somewhere in the middle – the mountains and valleys all around made the steep climb worth it. Our favorite part of this pass was when an older couple invited us into their home for tea and fresh pastries that she made right there in front of us. The village was near the top, 2,000m high, and already had a tiny bit of snow on the ground (and was below freezing every night). In fact, all of the surrounding houses were already abandoned for the season, and our lovely couple was headed out to their winter home for the next eight months the very next day. Though we had never really pictured Turkey to be a cold and snowy place, we are quickly realizing that it’s a good thing we started on these passes when we did because a week or two later and we could have easily been trudging through snow. In just one week Turkey has bumped it’s way up to our favorite country this trip as the paved quiet roads, beautiful scenery, and hospitable people have made every single day wonderful.

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Dispelling Myths About Cycle Touring

“Not all those who bicycle are lost.”

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The other day I read an article by a fellow Eugenian who is also cycling around the world, and I couldn’t help but laugh because every single myth she busted is true for us as well. In honor of that, I’ve decided to dispel many common myths about cycle touring from my own perspective.

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Zero Patience for Ignorance

“A society has no chance of success if its women are uneducated.”

Today as I was walking down by the sea a man who was walking in front of me kept looking behind him to see if I was still there. He wasn’t smiling like the wonderful Georgian guys I buy my kebab from everyday, in fact, he had the same sort of disgusting look I saw so many times on Indian men as they turned around to ask me for porn. Was I being paranoid, I wondered, that any time a guy now looks at me for more than two seconds I automatically assume the worst?

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When the Sun Don’t Shine

“It always rains on tents. Rainstorms will travel thousands of miles, against prevailing winds for the opportunity to rain on a tent.”

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What happens when it rains? Well, you put on your rain gear and just keep pedaling. And in all honesty, it’s not that bad cycling in the rain – sometimes it’s even a lot of fun! But the camping? Well… That’s a whole different story.

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