Ghost Towns and Snow: Bolivian Altiplano

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The last few days have been rough, sort of a three steps forward, two steps back sort of deal. We had four huge climbs (4,800m- 4,900m each) to do, and in between, there were little ups and downs which made it all the more difficult. The tops of the passes were often steep, and coupled with the poor road conditions, this left us pushing instead of pedaling most of the way up. Once we got to the downhill, instead of feeling excited or relieved, we sort of just felt dread as the road was in such bad condition we hardly ever surpassed 10-15km/h (on a downhill!). Plus, we knew once we got down that we would just have to begin the next climb right away. That being said, it was absolutely beautiful and though it was tough, every calorie burned was more than worth it to be high in the Bolivian mountains.

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Eat, Sleep, Cycle: Cycling Through Chile

“Not all those who bicycle are lost.”

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780km in seven days is not what we usually do, but as we ended up on the one and only road going north through Chile – highway five – we really didn’t have anything else to do but cycle. Though the first few days were fine, almost fun as we watched the kilometers fly by on the paved flat road, the last few days were busy and exhausting and reminded us, once again, how much we dislike concrete jungles. It was noisy, dirty, and boring, but we had a large shoulder and were able to cover a lot of ground each day, and though of course this week isn’t going down in our notebooks as a highlight, after nearly two years on the road a little bit of boring really isn’t the end of the world.

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Cycling into Fall: The Lakes Regions of Argentina and Chile

“Today I will do what others won’t, so tomorrow I can accomplish what others can’t.”

Pavement. Oh how we love pavement!!

Pavement. Oh how we love pavement!!

Our last few days in Argentina (don’t worry, we will be back) were wonderful due to the easy camping and non-busy roads of waving and honking happy people, two things which are common in Argentina but very uncommon, as we are now finding out, just next door in Chile. The colors have also started to change this week which made the landscapes beautiful, and I couldn’t be more excited to be cycling through my favorite season twice in one year!

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Families, Cyclists, and A Real Paved Road: The Carretera Austral

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After a few beautiful days of sun we entered into the rainy region of the Carretera, a region which really reminds the four of us Oregonians of home. We can pretty easily predict the weather here as the closer we get to Argentina, the driers, sunnier, and windier it gets, whereas whenever we head west, we end up in the lush green wet forests and waterfalls which surround the white covered peaks. As we were buying veggies in one of these small rainy towns a friendly French traveler started talking to us and eventually invited us back to his place to meet his wife and two small children. Though we went over for tea, tea turned into dinner and then the night as they kindly let us all stay in their cabin in order to avoid the huge storm raging outside. Les Petits Voyageurs quit their jobs and packed up their possessions a few months ago in order to spend the next year and a half traveling around the world with their two boys (age two and four). Kevin and I really enjoy meeting traveling families as someday we too want to travel with our future children. We had a lovely evening hanging out with their family, and I had a wonderful time befriending the kids as they don’t often find others who can play with them in French.

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Rest Days, Imagination, and the Art of Slowing Down: The Carretera Austral

It is better to travel well than to arrive.” 


Kevin and I have taken the last few days off in order to fly fish and enjoy the beautiful rivers and lakes around us.

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BBQs, Cyclists, and a Whole Lot of Observations: Patagonia

“Whatever you are, be a good one.”

Kevin at the BBQ.

Kevin at the BBQ.

These last few days in Argentina have been our much needed rest days after weeks of non-stop action. When we arrived into Calafate we found a campground with hot showers, wifi, and a whole lot of other cyclists so we ended up staying three nights during which time we BBQed, hung out with our fellow two-wheelers, and simply stayed around camp not doing a thing.

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Cycling Through Tierra Del Fuego

“Travel is about the gorgeous feeling of teetering in the unknown.”

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This last week was a difficult yet wonderful introduction to cycling through Patagonia as we cycled the small dirt route “b” from Ushuaia up to Punta Arenas. Though the first 200km of this route were paved, we quickly encountered strong headwinds which managed to slow us down to 8km/h on the flats for hours and even days at a time before we made it to the 350km of unpaved gravel roads that were to follow with just as much headwind. Though it wasn’t windy everyday, on the days it was we found ourselves pushing hard against a never ceasing barrier, as like everyone has already told us, we are going “the wrong way” through Patagonia in terms of the wind.

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Ushuaia: A Few Days at the Bottom of the World

“On the loose to climb a mountain, on the loose where I am free. On the loose to live my life, the way I think my life should be. For I’ve only got a moment, and a whole world yet to see, And I’ll be searching for tomorrow, from sea to shining in sea.”

The town of Ushuaia.

The town of Ushuaia.

Ushuaia is known to be the southernmost city in the world with only 1,000km separating it from Antarctica. It’s a place I’ve always dreamed about visiting, well not Ushuaia in particular, but Patagonia in general which is what this amazing mountainous expanse of land at the very bottom of Chile and Argentina is referred to. I couldn’t imagine a place more suited to Kevin and I as we have been told that we will find vast spaces of nothingness, some of the best rivers for fly fishing, and of course, mountains upon mountains to cycle through! Needless to say we are extremely excited and honored to begin our year long expedition throughout the Andes here at the bottom of the world.

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545 Days and Counting

“From an early age on, I was one of the Pippi Longstockings of this planet, no barrier too high and no way too far.”

180 days after I set out on this adventure I wrote about how my tent had turned into my home, my bike into my best friend, and the world into my playground. I discussed how my identity had changed from who I use to be, into the “girl cycling around the world,” and what I had learned about myself along the way. I talked about what surprised me most about this lifestyle, what didn’t surprise me at all, and concluded by reaffirming the fact that I’m still just a simple curious girl with a dream and a sense of wonder. After 365 days I spoke about how the inequality I experienced so acutely in India had made me a feminist, a young women intent on showing the world that us gals can do anything. I wrote about the hardships of traveling as a couple, something that now six month later I’m still trying to get better at, and I talked about the fact that the last year had enabled me to find and develop my growing interest in writing. And so now, 545 days (that’s a year and a half) after I pedaled away from home, I’m here to show you how I’m going to put the lessons I have learned throughout this past year and a half into practice during the final leg of this particular adventure as we cycle through the Andes.

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